#96 A Mere Week In The Provincetown Dunes.
This week was the major component of Shore Search North, my expedition to explore the surviving manifestations of the maritime culture of the New England Coast. It can’t be understood without reference to
The Outermost House: A Year of the Life On the Great Beach of Cape Cod. written by Henry Beston from his time there in 1927. Various editions exist of this classic. Here’s one: ISBN -13: 978-0-8050-7368-3. When I went to the Dune shack “Fowler,” I’d not read Beston…I’d been aware of his work for years but had never gotten around to reading it. Now, after both experiences, I realize that I’ve replicated in only one choice, prime week what Beston devoted a year to…coming to a state of peace with the nature of the place and as a result, at least partly, with myself.
Since Henry Beston did such a wonderful job of describing his time from a view far more knowledgeable than mine about the flora and fauna…are skates fauna??…how can I come off recounting my experience there? The guy can really write. Why should I bother ? except that I’ve promised quite a few regular visitors to this blog that I’d post something about it. There is something of worth in my perspective that adds to Beston’s… so here is my log from that time…mostly verbatum… and a few pictures from the mass I recorded. The whole trip yielded half a thousand digipix (6 gigabytes) and eleven rolls of silver analog film. The editing will take time, but here are a few… Most of these pictures, with the exception of botanicals where color is really helpful, are from B&W analog film negatives. It often feels to me like digital rendition is wrong for some subjects and once I realized I was following in Henry Beston’s 1927 footsteps, the picture technology available to him at that time felt more correct for me nowadays.
The other two components of the trip were the the working harbors and shore towns of the southern New England Coast and Down East in my old stomping grounds of Maine. They will become further posts later.
What is that lacy plant in the lower left of each frame ??
Log of Shore Seach North
Fowler Duneshack Shore Search North – Field Notes X-scribed
Sun 6 May ’12 7:10am up
8:30am full gear overhaul and Hot Shower….It’s working this morning !…hallealuia ! trip 615.0
10am stopped at flea market outside Wellfleet Drive In…didn’t buy anything.
Hi Noon bought ceremonial marsala at Wellfleet liqueur store, once Sheehan’s.
12:30 PM exact. At rendezvous.
1:45pm Chip and Ann have left. WX sunny and cool. I am here. Noisy helicopter. Unpacked and rough positioned propane fridge.
4:30pm took longish walk to orient – went out to Snail Rd. w/hiway barrier, then back past ballast bags, twin posts and Coast Guard ruins…O’Neill station…took wrong fork and ended up at Thalassa shack. This was a real workout. WX willowisps and mares tails. Need PB&J and then antenna for YB400.
7:32pm Sun under dunes – no cell phone signal here. 2/4 bars at top of dune…called Sarah S. and left message A-OK
7:50pm light lanterns and started fire.
9:12pm Moonrise over dunes !
Am in shack on first night, Sun 6 May, 2012. after good trip. I’m listening to radio Athens on shortwave. Pain in my right shoulder where the Cochabamba injury was is telling me that somehow I’m carrying the load wrong. Two places found for B&W film. Coast Guard ruins and a deep valley in the dunes with a tree whose roots have been uncovered by the shifting sands. I’m really liking the silence. I’m now just trying out the computer and how it is to work in this place and setting. The computer takes 3 1/2 minutes for full boot so the overhead means a relatively long working session is in order. I’m trying 23:23 minutes this time but will go longer as I determine battery use. The audio recorder is draining AAA NiMh’s at a too rapid rate for them to last. I have two alkalines for backup. Been thru one Nikon battery pack already. ( sentance redacted—personal). Time to feed the woodstove. Cell phone coverage non-existent at the shack but 3/4 at top of dune. I pro’lly don’t have enough food. I pro’lly need to shift day to dawn patrol so I can see better. Real workout for legs today walking in sugar sand. I am old for this. The shack is extremely well found…excesses even of some items, drinking water. Disposal of plastics is going to be a problem. Hoping it warms up some. Ann, the previous resident, went thru a quarter face cord of firewood in the cold week she was here. It’s now fully dark out and I will need to see how well I can navigate around the place at night. Tonight is a Supermoon, so maybe it will be easy to see once I get outside. I’m here. There is work to do and rest to be taken. I think I should call out as all’s well each evening to a different person. shutting down now.
Mon 7 May ’12 5:46 am Sunrise. 7:35am up feeling better after a hard night with repeated painful leg cramps. WX sunny and still. Wind backed southerly. Tai chi . 9:00am short fiddle practice. Shoulder still bothering me. Tinkered outdoors. Primed water pump.
10am light camera gear discipline then out to photo valley of the doomed tree and coast guard ruin.
12:30 back to shack for lunch and rest. Thinking “When Beachplums (Lilacs) Last In the Dooryard Bloomed. How this place, ecosystem, should speak to me so vividly; why shouldn’t it be mine as well as the property of those who can financially possess it thru inheritance or sudden riches? A difference being that I have little need to own it… in fact realize that in SOME sense No One can own it. I can abide the propertarians but there are limits over which they often step and need curtailment. 23 minutes head down in the sun.
1:30pm copied digipix and audio notes so far to date to HDD.
4pm out again to photo B&W nature
6:30pm back at shack after discovering actual Snail Road. Cooking beans and sausage and having lime and grog. WX slowly closing in but will try sleeping outside tonite. 4XZ 5420, W1AW 3581, Radio Athens 9420, WCBQ no signal heard on 7415, C.R.I. 7350 (china) , All India R. 9950,
8:40pm fully dark – no sign of moonrise. R.Exterior de Espanga 6055 R. Nederland in Spanish 6165
10:12pm Moonrise. Cloudy near horizon, bright stars and a planet visible overhead. – walked out to barrier and arch tree then back and up to the ocean bluff without lights. 10:55pm bed.
Tues 8 May ‘12. 5:42 dawn. Rain overnight. Sun in clouds…back to bed.
7:45 am. Up. Rain. Breakfast. Lit fire. Tai chi, short fiddle practice until shoulder pain precluded. I’m in the shack being a complete wusse about temperature. I have a fire going. Shoulder pain precludes much in the way of enjoyment playing fiddle. Yesterday was a physically demanding but productive day. Today I should concentrate thought a bit on why I’m here…trying to redefine directions…look for prosperity and improvements with what life and health remain. I also need rest and to let go of the frequent concerns of life at 2760 SLV Rd. I still need to think about marketing but more in the line of cooperation with other people who get a cut…like an agency arrangement with Lark. The week in between return from Maine and Folk College is going to be very busy…but I don’t need to work all that out yet.
9:30am went off on long beach patrol.
1:10pm returned to shack very tired and a bit hungry. – rain started spitting again. Got my feet wet and tasted the salt of the sea. Blew up the coals of the fire. This stove has wonderous rhythmic sounds as it heats up and expands. Tinkering with the idea of standing watch and watch in six hour watches, which today would mean off from 2pm to 8pm and then on watch from 8pm to 2 am….pro’lly not feasible. The WX is lifting now and I think my original plan of doing the cameras on the beach may be OK.
2:15PM Breezing up again…a nice sound when all is cozy.
5:15pm took the afternoon off to enjoy the howling of the wind
6:30pm wind still SW, blustery, veering WSW.
8:30pm supper of rice, olives and sausage with tea. Have read a lot. X-fered files to laptop. Floor yoga. Shoulder still painful.
10pm it seems like the shoulder pain returns as a concomitant of trying to do things the old way. Try something new and it abates temporarily – try to go backwards and it returns
This particular fantasy of being the shipwrecked sailor or coast guardsman has charm and is live in my style of luxury here…but what ship is it that is wrecked and where was it bound ? And now that I know the route out of here to “civilization” what should I do when I get there ??
Wedn 9 May ’12 2:10 am high winds and trashing, driving rain. Briefly stopped during dawn hour and then started raining steadily. 6am fully light—rain stopped. 7:30am raining again, hard. – got up lit fire…Tai chi and floor yoga – chopped wood carried water. Rain intermittent 10 am breakfast. 1 pm Chip and the propane guy are here to hook up propane refrigerator. The heavy question at the moment is WX I could handle a relationship if I found someone who’d be interested and willing. I’ve spend so much time alone and out of communication with other people that I can’t grok WX someone female half attractive and normal could/would put up with me. Carrie K. says she thinks I’m ready…but am I ??
(paragraph redacted—personal)
I haven’t enough income to operate effectively — too little to spend — too much to worry about how to save. Not enough effort toward increasing income. I do need more income even if it means trading for time.
Was practicing fiddle and will write this battery out while they are working on the tanks. I’m actually glad to have the rain because it means I have no need to go out on the land today and can just process what I’ve got inside. If I’m going to switch to being a writer I’ve got to be able to get greater speed, accuracy and endurance with the physical part of writing on the keyboard. I was conscious this morning that I was doing chop wood, carry water while chopping wood and carrying water. It was very easy in this circumstance. I noticed that this particular woodstove has an actual rhythmic routine that it goes thru while heating and cooling. I’m thinking quite a bit about the pain in my shoulder. I’ve fairly sure that it’s mostly mental as it comes and goes with familiar vs. unfamiliar activities…it’s like the pain is trying to tell me what needs change in my life.
Evening shortwave listening. Wish I’d brought more wire for a better antenna. Code cypher groups 4631 khz. Ship to ship 4840 khz. Peter Schiff show 5040. cool music in French 5110. WBCQ 5450. Aviation weather east coast. 5506 Aviation WX Europe 5819. CW mark space R. Havana Cuba 6000. C.R.I. 6020. Called Lark and David on cell phone to check in.
Thurs 10 May ’12 still raining. Up at 6:45am Prep for town trip. Wind has backed to NW. Leave shack 7:55am hike out in intermittent rain.
Arrive at Ove the Volvo at 8:45am 50 minutes. 8:55am Pilgrim Heights, Highland Light, Mitre Corp site WX too hostile for serious general photography. 10:23am trip miles 691.3 at Newcombe Hollow. Saw very bedraggled red fox on Gull Pond Rd. Did I image the race in Newcombe Hollow or did it actually happen ? I know it actually happened here a half century ago. ? Why is this unfinished business ? why can’t I leave it forever behind ? I think on Sunday I will . 11am Clear Newcombe Hollow after long talk with a young local painter…houses, not canvas. “They all want to be the last one over the bridge.” They said that in Maine too.
11:13am trip 697.5 at Marconi site. (The references to shortwave radio frequencies and listening result from taking advantage of the quiet, both acoustic and electronic…the same that attracted Marconi to this area in 1901 to attempt the first transatlantic radio communications from a site in nearby Wellfleet.)
11:43am what I think was the Finast market now appears to be an antique mall. Yes, a gal in donut shop’s mom worked there.
Noon. Finished lunch at Finast site.
12:15 Cruised out Chequessett Neck Rd. looking for the Melcher’s house. Did not find. Perhaps it may be gone.
1:16 pm In P’town…picked up groceries at P’town Stop n Shop $14.18
2pm ff walked all of Commercial St. P’Town from Coast Guard station to far end of east end, then back via Bradford St. Few of the art galleries open because not weekend and not yet season. Looked in all open galleries. Stopped in a Greek pub for a gyro and excellent local red ale,$15.00 w/tip then talked until 5pm with a local photo artist who gets $3K for lesbian centered photo art. Walked up to Pilgrim Monument which was closing and spoke with a British gal who was also taking pictures. Encountered Chip on a Segway scooter who invited me to the grand opening of a sushi bar. I went, but it cost me many blocks of walking with already tired, painful knees to go into a cacophony of wall to wall people all so tight packed and noisy I couldn’t cope at all. I had to walk many blocks back to Ove the Volvo.
7:30pm started to assault the Snail Road hill #1. Made it back to the shack at 8:07pm after calling Carrie K. and leaving a message that all was well. Made poached Spam and daiqueris for supper and cross loaded digipix to laptop harddrive.
Fri 11 May ’12 awake at 6:10am. Got up at 7am – lots of gear discipline to do today. Sky clear. Wind fresh from west
10:30am cleaned up well. Carried water, chopped wood. Did urgent laundry.. Shot ½ roll of 6cm film near shack. Early lunch. General housekeeping.
1:40pm took daypack photo equipment southwest along dune tops. This harkens back to the coast guard watchtower on Mount Ave. Bay Head and walking the patrol on the BHIA boardwalk in front of the Bluffs Hotel. Thinking about navigation in this place where at first there are no distinct landmarks and gradually you build up a map in the mind. The first major landmark became the hill that looks down on the shack at one side and into the Valley of the Doomed Tree on the other side. Then came the mud puddle in the road by the coast guard ruin…then the ballast bags and the arched tree and so forth until I sort of knew where I was. Now, hiking along the top of the sea bluff dunes I know where these places are even though I can’t see them.
How weak and full of pain I have become. I will not submit to it.
4:25pm back at the shack. “The sun is o’er the yardarm.” I sit on the deck with cheese, crackers, lime and rum…and greenhead deer flies. Enjoying the sun thru sucker holes in the cloud deck.
6:30pm I feel like I’ve reached my absolute limit of being alone all the time. I must find engagement with others.
7:30pm I’m not usually a gushing fan of sunsets but tonight is really rather nice, constantly evolving, changing even after the sun is hull down under the dunes. .
Sat 12 May ’12. awake at 6:15am up at 7am. WX clear and cold. Light breeze from NW. Last full day here…weekend population traffic probable. Thinking of what this trip is all about… not recapturing nor reliving the fires of youth but of understanding them and something of why I have declined the position in society that birth family and career might have bestowed. Even as a teen in Bay Head I didn’t seek a place in the society of those whose families ran the summer colony…had the yachts and flashy cars. I didn’t understand then the role of the sheer money involved and where it could have come from. I did choose the company of the locals until it became evident that I couldn’t be part of that either. Perhaps that means that I’ve always been basically democratic. I really preferred Mary Sheehan from the liqueur store to the admirals granddaughter. Dad, with his athletic prowess, golf and whist clubs, brain power and fraternity aspired to the ruling class but knew limits and never forgot or renounced his roots. Mom was always a shopkeeper. Her friends were the grocer and baker and the respect she showed the ethnically very different was one of her greatest lessons. I was the slightly defective late child who was always clueless about class society and my proper place in it. The summer world I lived in allowed a mix of the demos and the future rulers…Phillis and her CIA Peter…The general’s playgirl daughter (sentence redacted—personal) I’m not sure I can reconnect. The key would seem to be my ability to build my own prosperity. At the moment I can hardly buy my way home, and when I get there I have to sail solo too large a ship.
8:30am Tai chi and floor yoga. Breakfast.
11am back at the shack after a short patrol to Valley of the Doomed Tree and Coast Guard Ruin. The coast guard station was Eugene O’Neill’s; he bought it after it was decommissioned by the C.G.
11:20am a C.G. chopper went out very low, close and fast to check out a small craft off easy soundings…came back right away. Tide is near dead low. It will be midtide and making ca. 2pm. Many bumble bees working this morning. When home must find and read Henry Beston “The Outermost House.”
1pm lay in sun on deck the treated myself to a long fastidious hair and beard trim.
1:30pm I’m going swimming.
3pm back from swimming, or, more truthfully a good solid dunk. The water was too cold to stay in very long but I honored my dad and went in, however briefly. I was impressed more than ever by the variation of colors in the margin curl as the waves break and recede. Brought back a few surf clam shells and one gemstone. I felt I didn’t want to stay too long in the sun to become painfully pink. I’m sitting in the shade on the deck trying to figure out the strategy of a bumble bee who seems to be on recon flights in this airspace. Five hawks…no, six….ah, seven, eight are thermal soaring just west of the shack. Their wing feathers are golden brown, their bodies black. I wish I had binoculars…left them in the car. I’m remembering well the heat of feet sinking deep into sugarsand. Some larger flying critter too fast for me to ID is pursuing that bumble bee who just escaped by only a couple of inches. A brace of Canada geese just flew by on a vector toward WNW.
3:47 pm Cliff Swallows…even they can briefly thermal.
8pm enjoyed a long nice chat with Marika, a cardiac surgical assistant from Vancouver BC met on trail while photographing…offered a beer and sat on deck talking until twilight. She has just started back to P’Town with GPS guidance. Tried to call Lark and Margie Strauss from dunetop but got only answering machines. I am a bit concerned by intestinal disturbance that gives me turds with the consistency of [ phrase redacted…you really don’t wanna know] Alarm set for 6:30 am tomorrow. Shortwave listening to 9420 — R. Athens., 3486 — Aviation WX New York, 4331– 4XZ Israeli navy, Haifa, in morse cypher groups.
9:30pm went on night patrol out to Snail Rd. and almost got lost on the way back. Lay on my back (shoulder still painful) to look at the stars and was appalled at my ignorance of the night sky. I’ve forgotten what little of the star atlas I once knew. Also could not resolve bright stars into point sources either with or without my glasses. My eyes are going…every star looked like a fuzzy boomerang shape. The blind photographer salutes the deaf Beethoven.
10:15pm back at shack. 6175 – R. Viet Nam, 6195 – BBC news. BED.
Sunday 13 May ’12 light at 5:35am up at 6:25am WX light breeze from west. High thin overcast
7:30am fine NPR piece on acoustic ecology by Gordon Hempton – full Sunday cleanup. I’m distressed to discover how crappy my eyes have become. Last night couldn’t always get my two images to converge and couldn’t see weak field sky areas at all – Just when the lifelong photographer begins to really learn how visually perceive the world the optical equipment begins to fail. Also distressed at how weak and low energy the whole body has seemed this week. I think it may have massively malfunctioned if I hadn’t had the therapeutic rest this place affords.
11am cleanup pretty well complete. Time for a last trip to the sea.
2:15pm back at Ove the Volvo. Chip turned up on time and we got out handsomely. Anchor hove short for departure at trip 746.2.
2:28 pm trip 753.5 at Mitre site
3:08pm Stopped in Eastham for ice cream.
4pm Stuck in parking lot traffic on RT6 Sagamore bridge down to one lane each way. Bailed out to Rt6a…not much better. Will need fuel soon.
4:18 pm trip 808.4 miles. Stopped for fuel and another wonderful pastrami sandwich at the deli in Sandwich. Gas station out of everything but super premium. Added 3.7 gal $15.10 $8.35 food
6pm 248000.0 absolute miles trip 847.8
7:16pm trip 896.7 248050. in drive at Larks NuHobbiton. Lark fed bourbon and chef salad. Yum. Liniment on shoulder. Called Eve for mothers day. Crash bed.
The Valley of the Doomed Tree grabbed me at first sight with its beauty. The tree itself became a metaphor for my own passing life. I photographed it again and again from different locations and in differing lights. Eventually both of us will pass…our roots undercut by inevitable time.
As I read Henry Beston after returning home something did occur to me that wasn’t yet an issue when he tarried here in 1927. The silence and space needed for coming gradually to peace with the nature of the place and with our own spirits is no longer a limitless resource. I enjoyed this time due to the dedication of those in the P’Town Community Compact and the wisdom of the US Congress in the 1960′s in establishing the Cape Cod National Seashore. Otherwise, by now, almost the entire Cape would be in private hands and condominimized away from the vast majority of those who could benefit from the experience. The tragedy of the commons was not an idea lost on Beston who understood the the forests of this place fell to the private axes for lumber, fuel, salt driers and pottery kilns. With unlimited “development,” the system will probably never completely recover. The pressure grows ever more intense with exponential population….perhaps we too shall pass…nature will find its way.
Handmade silver prints of these and other pictures will be for sale to finance further photo expeditions. I’ll be showing at Keuka Arts Festival next weekend, 9 and 10 June in Penn Yan, NY for further info:
Nuff for now…these lots and lots still to do. Next post: maybe in a couple of weeks, I’m overwhelmed right now.
































